SE cello, Naomi Pavri, buckles up her cello (yes, it’s definitely secure) and begins the second instalment of our blog as the Ensemble travel to Taiwan
Day 6
Speaking as a cellist, and having experienced suspicious and anxious check-in desk assistants on countless occasions over the last couple of months, fellow SE cello Ali and I arrive at Shanghai airport with some trepidation at the inevitable comment “Do you have a seat for that?” “No,” I stubbornly want to reply, “I’m hoping to put it in my pocket.” However, all goes smoothly and we manage to check in in the record time of 60 seconds. Feeling overly confident, we then pre-board the flight for Taipei and rather smugly swan into our seats only to be met by a swarm of immaculate looking air stewardesses who insist on strapping the cellos in with enough extension belts to circle the globe twice. This involves tying the poor instruments to virtually every neighbouring seat. Quite an impressive achievement. Inevitably the rest of the Ensemble board effortlessly and the flight to Taipei is a breeze.
A couple of hours of relaxation is looked forward to by all with a promise of meeting for dinner at the wonderful Din Tai Fung restaurant, Taiwan’s no. 1 Dumpling House. However, it is safe to say that the majority of the group spend that time rather baffled and somewhat stupefied by the toilet in our room. It is the most elaborate contraption known to mankind, involving a myriad of buttons to push, pull and press, not to mention the extraordinarily complex instructions. Finnegan’s Wake makes easier reading. Still, it clearly promises the Ultimate Sanitised Rear Experience, complete with dryer.
We congregate in the lobby at 6pm with great excitement and judging by the rather sodden attire of certain violinists, it is easy to see who has pressed the wrong button!
We all consume more than an elegant sufficiency (Jon Morton) of said dumplings and conclude the evening with an eye-opening stroll through a night market. A wealth of culinary delights (some more delightful than others) greets us with the pungent smell of fish and the intoxicating allure of watermelon stirring the sleepiness of the senses.
Day 7
There is an intense fusion of New York meets Asia in Taiwan with its bustling city, yellow cabs and scooters in abundance. Taiwan is certainly a country with warmth and generosity at the heart of its people, so much so that you could almost expect to see a car slow to a halt on the flyover (as some random pedestrian tries to cross) and say, “No, really. After you.” There is a wonderful balance of city and natural beauty and with our 3rd concert tonight, we divide into groups in the hope of covering all cultural avenues in a limited space of time.
A trip to the top of Taipei 101 is enjoyed by Laura, Jenny, Zoe, Xander and James, where they are treated to staggering views across Taipei and up into the tea plantations. Boasting 91 floors high and grounded by an impressive 4000 ton steel ball, Taipei 101 glories in the title of “World’s fastest elevator.”
Meanwhile, Jan and I journey to the tea plantations and although sadly the gondola is out of service, we delight in boarding a pink bus that resembles an ice cream van from Balamory. Vertiginous, winding roads take us to the very heart of the plantations and we revel in the enchanting views across lush, verdant hillsides. Surprisingly there is no smell of tea, but the stillness is magical and the air, wonderfully clean – a welcome relief from the palpable smog of recent days. Feeling on a high yet aware of time restrictions, we reluctantly abandon the allure of dappled pathways and make our way back. We do have a concert after all!
The name Cultural Centre barely does justice to the awesome beauty of the stunning concert hall we are to play in tonight. With chandeliers to rival Versailles and enough seats to accommodate the entire population of Belgium, we feel so privileged to be performing here. It is Ali’s special birthday and a brief rehearsal is pleasantly interrupted by the arrival of a delicious cake. Thanks to tour manager Jenny!
The hall has an acoustic to relish where even the most daring pianissimo can be heard from far afield. Alison, as ever, plays like a dream and is unsurprisingly called back for 3 encores. We also have our fair share of the limelight (having played for nearly 2 1/2 hrs!) and are showered with many a “Bravo!” as we perform our encore of Britten’s Aria Italiano.
After the concert, Thorben (our Chief Exec.) arranges for us to celebrate in style at a little-known but quirky bar. Having driven tentatively down a number of back streets it is clear that even the local taxi driver has no idea where he is heading and regrettably our knowledge of Chinese is not sufficient to assist him with directions. Even an award-winning performance of charades gesticulating in all directions does little to help. We finally stumble on “The Bed” bar and are hastily ushered to a corner downstairs where soft cushions are strewn on cosy benches and muslin drapes cascade above. A rambunctious evening is enjoyed by all and as a resplendent Shisha pipe takes centre stage on the table nearby, in true Eastern spirit we are seduced by its intoxicating aroma.
A fitting end to conclude a memorable day.
Day 8
The day of our final concert dawns and today we are bound for Kaohsiung in the south of Taiwan.
We are taking the train and after yet another sumptuous breakfast (anything from chicken feet to croissants), Jenny instructs us to meet at the bottom of the bridge stairs that cross a horrendously busy road. Normally this would be fine, but the prospect of hauling heavy suitcases laden with gifts purchased over the last week, is rather daunting. Sensing our heavy hearts, a couple of the wonderful hotel staff immediately leap into action slinging several suitcases across their backs and with gazelle-like grace, nimbly ascend the stairs with consummate ease. It is hard to imagine this level of customer service at home! Thank you so much Palais de Chine staff.
We have the unusual luxury of travelling business class and our level of excitement is clearly visible. This is a train second to none where one seat can house several Buddhas and rotate 360 degrees. It is not difficult to imagine the amusement this creates and we are soon spinning to our hearts’ content, much to the bewilderment of regular passengers. The fun over, we all recline in splendour and soon the sound of heavy snoring envelops the carriage.
The hotel in Kaohsiung is yet again extraordinary and its contemporary architecture next to the old Taiwan is startling.
A quick freshen up and then to our final concert. One of the luxuries of performing the same pieces on tour is being able to try out different musical ideas. There is an element of spontaneity in light of this, and being the last concert and knowing Jon’s love of the unexpected, we are aware of having to be mentally on our toes. A loud musical passage suddenly becomes very quiet in the Handel Concerto Grosso and although momentarily surprised, we are thoroughly practiced in reacting to such an event and rejoice in something new.
And so we bid farewell to China and Taiwan. Thank you to everyone who has supported and cheered us. It has, once again, been epic.
scottishensemble 